This is far from being complete. If you have questions not included here, post them on the message board, or e-mail me. I'll add them in the future revisions once it's 'frequent' enough.

Getting Stuff

1.1 Where can I buy <insert name here> kit online?
1.2 Where do you get your models?

1.3 Can I order <insert name> from you (guys)?

1.4 Where can I get that 1/220 Nightingale you got?

1.5 Where can I buy the GM sniper Custom II conversion parts?

1.6 And Zaku III?
1.7 I see that you're making copy of resin kit parts, will you send/sell me some?

Modeling Related

2.1 How can I paint the model?
2.2 What about spray can painting?

2.3 What kind of paint do you use?

2.4 How can I paint those tiny panel lines?

2.5 I noticed you mentioned 'copying parts', how is this done?

2.6 What is your equipment's setting for taking photos of your models?
2.7 Should I paint my kit gloss or flat?
2.8 How can I make rivets?

Miscellaneous

3.1 Will you put a scan of <magazine's name> online?

3.2 Will you take a commission work?

3.3 Where doe the name 'Church of the Machine' came from?
3.4 How come there's no kit reviews on this site?
3.5 What makes you stick with just 1/144 scale?
3.6 What are some of the questions I should NOT asked?

1.1 Where can I buy <insert name here> kit online?

First off, I don't really buy kit online myself. Where I live, plastic kits are readily available in just about every department store. Of the few occasions I did order some accessories over the Internet, I prefer:

Rainbow 10
Great service, and fast delivery. And I'm not saying that just because I won a free 10,000 yen shopping credit from them. ;-)

Most people would probably preferred Hobby Link Japan, as they have a rather nice online catalog. But personally, if you know exactly what you want (i.e.: kit's name, manufacturer), go with R10. They're much faster, and only list what they have in stock. I'm rather thoroughly pissed with my last order with HLJ where I ordered bunch of stuff, which they replied as only one of them not in stock, so I told them to ship immediately and drop that one item. Not only does this took them several days, when it's time they actually shipped, 1/3 the items in my order were suddenly out of stock. Quite frustrating, that.

1.2 Where do you get your models?

This is not going to be helpful, but since it's been asked so often:I get most of the garage kits directly in Japan or Hong Kong, where I usually visit at least once a year. Otherwise, for plastic kits, see above question.

1.3 Can I order <insert name> from you (guys)?

Dude! This is NOT a commercial web site! I don't sell stuff.

1.4 Where can I get that 1/220 Nightingale?

Recast aside, this is one of the most sought after in the world of Gundam garage kits. It is one of the 2 Gundam kits ever produced by Kaiyodo. Originally released in 1990 at 15,000 yen, and been out of production for over 10 years. Chance of reissue (the exact same kit) is perhaps very slim as B-Club now has monopoly on Gundam GK license.

That said, if you have the capital and resource to hunt it down, I have seen it available in Akihabara's Yellow Submarine shop (in Tokyo, that is) selling at whopping 150,000 yen as recently as July 2001. Probably not going anywhere soon with that kind of price, as I've seen it there for the past 2 years. ;) It also occasionally come up in Yahoo! Japan auction, each time starting at no less than 100,000 yen (and usually ended up higher).

There are also 2 other versions of the Nightingale released during 1999. Club-M's 1/100 which sells at JAF-CON only, at 58,000 yen, and B-Club's 1/144 priced at 29,800 yen. The latter of which you can still get from HLJ (and perhaps Rainbow 10).

Speaking of the 1/144 version, I'd have to mention that they either really cheat on the scale a whole lot, or the 1/220 one is grossly out of scale because the B-Club (1/144) one when put together is practically the same size as the 1/220 Kaiyodo's! I pretty much dissatisfied with its rather crude detail as well.

1.5 Where can I buy the GM sniper Custom II conversion parts?

The conversion part by B-Club was first released in 1990, and as most of the garage kits, has never been reissued since. I bought mine in Tokyo in 93 along with the GM cold climate conversion parts. For my guess, I can only see B-Club produce a new version only when Bandai decide to make the HGUC kit of the GM Command, but then if that is to happen, Bandai would probably also do a plastic kit version of GM Sniper 2 as well. Thus render the idea of a conversion kit moot.

Your best bet in finding one is probably from either used garage kit store (in Japan, that is) or on Yahoo! Japan auction, where I see it show up quite often over the past 2 years. You'd need a Japanese address and bank account though, a new regulation they started imposing a year ago.

1.6 And Zaku III?

Now that's an easy one! This is still a relatively recent kit (97 if I recall), and I still see them in shops all the time. R10 and HLJ most likely can still get you the kit.

1.7 I see that you're making copy of resin kit parts, will you send/sell me some?

Sorry, all of the copying I made are solely for use personally. I don't intend on joining the rank of recasters anytime soon. ;)

2.1 How can I paint the model?

There are so many ways one can go about painting kits, and each have its own advantages and drawbacks. I think it's better that you should experiment and find one that you're comfortable with.

Generally, I paint with airbrush. Pieces with different colors needed to be masked before spraying one color at a time. For that purpose, a simple masking tape is applied Afterward I usually picked out the detail with small brush.

If you're just starting out, airbrush is not really a necessity. You can paint using brush and still get a satisfying result. I find enamel to be the best medium to work with owning to its slow drying time. A large, flat brush is better suit covering large area that needed to be paint. Thin the paint with corresponding type of thinner. The strokes should be in one direction, and painted evenly. For details, use a small pointy type brush. You can find those many types of brushed in just about any hobby shops or art supply stores.

2.2 What about spray can painting?

Yeah sure, why not. Spray can is one quick clean way of getting the job done. And unlike, airbrush, there are much less factors to worry about when dealing with spray can. The 2 things that you should be concern with are the distance away from subject, and how long you're spraying it on.

A distance of at least 15cm (6 inches) should be kept between the spray nozzle and subject. Always give the can a few good shakes before every spray, so that paint and thinner inside are mixed properly. Spray with even movement in one direction. It is better to spray several thin coat rather than one thick coat.

If the paint starts to run on the model, it could be because you either: 1) spray too close to the subject or 2) keep on spraying the spot for too long. So if that happens, fix your method accordingly. Lastly, avoid spraying on a rainy day, the humidity will cause the paint to be really dull! (the same apply to airbrushing as well).

2.3 What kind of paint do you use?

For the most part, I use Gunze's Mr. Color lacquer-based paint, and Tamiya's enamel (square bottle) for all the little details. Occasionally some water-based acrylic is used when I can't find matching color in lacquer/too lazy to mix or when I paint with brush. I also sometimes use gouache for diorama elements usually made with plaster of Paris.

And no, Mr. Color (or any other paint) is not a paint that would magically transform anything painted with it into a masterpiece. ;) The primary reason I stick with it is because of its availability to me and the fact that the the property of lacquer color yields a very fast drying time. Just about any brand of plastic model paint can produce a good result. It's more important how you paint it more than the brand of paint. Therefore, don't fall into the myth of needing to find particular brand of paint just because "people in Hobby Japan use them". There simply is no Elixir.

2.4 How can I paint those tiny panel lines?

Screw marker! <fist in the air!>

The best methods is to use the wash technique. The idea is to use different type of paint for base coat and panel lines that you can clean off the excess after filling in the line, thus leaving only paint already been filled in recess area. Provided that the paint used for your base coat is "stronger" than the wash, you can easily get rid of the excess paint without harming the base.

Strangely enough, I have has success with using enamel to wash over acrylic base. The key is to let the base paint dries thoroughly before proceeding with wash. Both paints I tried with are Tamiya, BTW.

2.5 I noticed you mentioned 'copying parts', how is this done?

I copy parts by making molds from RTV silicone, and casting the copy with poly urethane resin.

The method of making the mold goes roughly like this:

1. you plug half of the master into a bed of clay.
2. Form a box around it with plastic/acrylic plate, and seal it with more clay as tightly as possible.
3. Then pour the mixed silicone into it. It usually takes around 8 hours to completely cured -if the mixing ratio is correct.
4. When cured, remove clay and proceed to do the other side with the same procedures, but apply a separating agent to prevent the silicone of both side merging into one big mess! The separating agent can be anything from cheap Vaseline (petroleum jelly) to silicone spray.
5. You'll want cut open some gates with sharp knife for casting resin later as well (if that hasn't been done with some sort of plastic rod buried in the mold already).
6. When you're done with molds, it's time to cast. Resin (or poly urethane) usually comes in 2 part where you mix equal amount of each. You'll have around 5 minutes to work with it before it sets.

I'll be doing a more detail article on this later (some day...). Stay tuned.

2.6 What is your equipment's setting for taking photos of your models?

My current camera is Cannon's Kiss III (the lower end model for SLR), but most of the photos on this site were shot using Cannon EOS50. I used macro lens for the majority of the shots. For film, I prefer 100 ISO negative film. Mainly because it's cheap, but also it has the finest grain. You have the option of blowing the photo up later.

Perhaps the most important aspect to getting good photography is lighting (well, composition helps, too). My main setup makes up of 2 light sources. One set above the subject and the other on the side (laid diagonally from subject), with reflect opposite of it. My cheapo reflects are made from Styrofoam board or foil. I also use tracing paper to soften each light, so the cast shadow doesn't come out too strongly.

2.7 Should I paint my kit gloss or flat?

If you want a realistic looking model, for the most part, you'll want to use flat paint. Or at least semi-gloss finish. Unless you want it t look like a toy, avoid a total gloss. Of course, there are always some exceptions (Hyagku Shiki for example).

Personally I don't use clear coat spray much, since it tends to altered the finished color somewhat. I like custom mixed the finishing of the paint to my liking, which most of the time, is completely flat. But that's just my preference.

2.8 How can I make rivets?

If you're lazy, there are many ready made rivets available from Kotobukiya, Wave, etc. However, if you're cheapskate and don't feel like paying ¥150 or so for a tiny tree of plastic, there are ways to make your own (and a unique one as well). Here's a few.

• Cut up plastic rod evenly for the non dome-shaped rivet.
• Use a pinvise to poke thin styrene sheet, enough to create a dome-like form. Cut them all up, and you have yourself rivets.
• Make a flat bed of clay. Use a round-shaped pointy object to make several shallow holes on the clay, and use it as a mold to fill in resin/polyurethane, putty, or try nail polish for a clear rivet!

3.1 Will you put a scan of <magazine's name> online?

Never! I will not put a scan of any copyrighted materials here. I'm not that desperate for contents....yet.

3.2 Will you take a commission work?

Probably not , unless the pay is really, really good. They simply took too much of my time. And since there are many people out there who would do it better with less money, there's little point in me doing it, I guess.

3.3 Where does the name 'Church of the Machine' came from?

It's taken from a song title of one of my favorite band, Symphony X.

Actually, this is not one of the most frequently asked, but I just want to plug my favorite band. :D

3.4 How come there's no kit reviews on this site?

Well, two of the reasons I can think of is that many of the kits I have are limited run garage kits. By the time I would gotten around to review it, chances are, it won't be available anymore. And secondly, I have a very different criteria in consider buying kits than most people. I will buy it if the subject interest me, rather than other factors most people care about, like color molding or whether it's required glue, etc.

3.5 What makes you stick with just 1/144 scale?

Mmmm, now that I actually think about it... I don't really know! I was as excited as the next guy with the announcement of the first MG in 95 (or so?). And I certainly have done my fair share of the old 1/100 kits 15-20 years ago. I guess it all come down to:

• I prefer all (or most) the kits I make to be in the same scale, relative to one another. And since most of what I already did are 1/144, I probably stuck basically.
• I grows very disturbed by most of the new "features" Kunio Okawara managed to force into some of the earlier MGs (like the Gelgoog though). But then again, Katoki has been in charge of most MGs, but I have yet to rush into building them....
• 1/144 makes a nice side for a rather large diorama.
• I have no preoccupation about bigger automatically translated into better or supposedly more desirable.
• People with insecurity regarding size needs to compensate by making big model, maybe? ;) Okay, not really, just feel like working that one in.
• Ultimately though, I think there;s some sort of Zen-like quality in trying to make a supposedly crap (-pier) and smaller kits of 1/144 into something unique and personal. A bonsai mentality, if you will.

Will add some more reasons as I struggle on in trying to 'justify' my fetish with 1/144 realm. ;)

3.6 What are some of the questions I should NOT ask?

I'm thoroughly annoyed with the generic questions that seem as if their purpose were solely to waste my time. Like:

• "What should I get for my next kit?"
  (Hell if I know!)
• "Can you tell me how to put together a model?"
  (Am I expect to write the whole book and mail it to you!?)

I'm willing to answer most (modeling, that is ^^;) questions, but this is not a free tech support! So please don't abuse it. If you're having problem with certain things, ask away, just don't cast a net and expect me to come up with answers for you.