RGM-89 Jegan

BANDAI 1/144 injection kit

Introduction by Metal Slime

Anaheim Electronics GM Series for U.C.009X, based concept comes from MSA-003 Nemo. Cost reduction was imposed on their project, therefore Titanium Composite Ceramic was instead being applied as armor.

The Model

Out of the box, the Jegan kit is a decent one. The structure is firm and sturdy. Each limb is removable (as all the kit in this series) which is really welcome after the abysmal ZZ line. Plus proportion is not too bad as I consider it the most important aspect of any kits.

The downside, however, is its very limited posability as well as its lack of details. Some modifications will be needed to make this kit looks good. Fortunately, the kit lend itself very well to modifying and adding details.

The construction

I built it in combination of some of the part from the B-club's conversion part Since I'm not building an F-91 era Jegan, most of the parts included are rather useless for me. Oh, if anyone are planning to buy this conversion part, I have some advice for you: don't! It's really not worth it. There's a head included in the box that I'm still having hard time distinguishing it from stock plastic head part. Almost like they made a mold from out of the box part! On top of that the casting quality here still leave much to desire.

Apart from the conversion kit, I took bits and pieces from other kits as well. The sabre is from S-Gundam kit and the hands were taken from a Z-plus conversion parts. Some might argue that the Jegan's stock hands are the best of all Bandai kits but I think it's way too large.

Modifications

Since there were quite a few of modifications made on it, I'll divide them into sections:

  • Head: I use the resin head from the conversion kit. Although I can't seem to find any different but just so I could feel justify buying the parts. I then sawed off the neck and drilled an opening for the ball joint. A new neck with ball joint attached is then used instead. The antennae on the vulcan is replaced with 1.5mm brass rod.
  • Body: The stock torso is cut out to make way for the smaller/ movable scratch-built one. The upper and lower body are freely movable (through the magic of ball-joint as usual) At the bottom, a poly cap is used to join with waist.
  • Arms: To increase mobility, I sawed the upper part of the arms and add 3mm poly cap/ plastic rod. It now rotatable.
  • Waist: I replaced the top part of the waist with a few layers of 1mm plastic sheet since the original seems too bulky and hollow.
  • Legs: For upper legs, I cladded a 0.3mm plastic sheets and scribed panel lines around for sort of 'inner mechanism' looks. The little propellant tanks of the lower legs (near the heel) are a little annoying to find place to attach. Those were 1mm and 0.5mm plastic rods on a plastic sheet bracer. In the rear view picture, you can see coil springs used to join both part of the legs.
  • Backpack: Stock verniers are replaced with Wave's along with coil spring for mechanical effects.
  • Weapons: Shield is now equipped with ball-joint instead of the normal spur. Hmmm, does that make me a ball-joint freak or what!?

See next page for more details on modifying/adding extra details.

More Details

I scribed a few extra panel lines all over the place: chest, shoulders, legs and backpack. Various shapes and sizes of rivets are also used to 'decorate' the whole thing. Somehow, riveting has become part of my style now...

Painting

As always, Gunze Sangyo laquer based is used primarily. I started the mixing process with white (1) and slowly add Daytona green (66) bit by bit until the desired intensity is achieved. Add a very tiny bit of clear blue (50) and a little flat base.

For the visor: I paint a base coat of chrome silver (on top of primer) and paint flat black for the darkened area. Then over-spray with clear green.



Send comments to virapat@mozart.inet.co.th